Craziest day yet.

Our post lunch activity today was an Alone Tour- which is exactly what it sounds like- a tour of the city alone. We were allotted six hours and given several tasks (take 3 forms of public transportation, invite someone for chiya (chai tea) ask someone about the political situation and so on.) Walk around a crazy city, without knowing where I am or how to communicate with people for six hours? Um, okay.

I set out on foot from the house determined to hop on a bus and go anywhere... but I couldn't find any to get on! I kept on walking for half an hour or so and somehow wound up in the center of the city. I quickly noted that a. the word 'crowded' doesn't even begin to describe how things are here and b. pollution is rampant and disgusting.

I found myself in a crowded square and stopped for a break when a young man approached me and struck up a conversation. He looked pretty harmless and I didn't really mind as he continued to walk alongside me. I found out that his name was Sanjay, that he was 20 years old, and was currently studying art. For some reason (he said it was to practice his English) Sanjay cheerfully led me around the city, pointing out various temples and other places of interest. He himself is Hindu and taught me a lot of their customs, as well as Buddhism (the two main religions in Nepal). I asked him about the political situation (check!) and was interested to hear why he stayed away from politics. His answer: "Nothing here ever gets done." We also spoke about his background- he moved here from India five years ago and lives in a tent with his three siblings and parents in an Indian slum of the city. He told me about the caste he belongs to (a very low one) and remarked that he didn't really care to change the system, 'it is what it is,' he said with a half smile. It was funny to hear the similarities between the social pressure surrounding marriage, he himself is to have an arranged marriage, (although he said his parents would probably be okay if he chose someone himself) and as a boy, he's given more time to get married. After a couple of hours of walking around, chatting, and seeing some more temples, an army base, even a shopping mall, I felt that it was time to head back. Thinking I might be able to check off another one of my tasks I offered to buy Sanjay some chiya and maybe some lunch. He told me that he didn't want to take anything from me, but asked, with his head bowed, would I please buy his family some food?

Here's where things got tricky.

From our conversation I had learned a lot about his family and his three younger siblings, and I thought it might be really helpful to buy them some candy, or some staples. Also, he had just led me around the city for the past three hours, I felt like I most definitely owed him something. Sanjay led me to an open store and started choosing some things- infant formula, a big bag of rice, oil, soap etc. The woman rang up the purchases and showed me the calculator. 4400 rupees. Not only did I not have that much money on me, it sounded absurdly high and I told Sanjay I couldn't pay for all of it. He put some things back and the new bill came out to 2200 rupees. This still sounded prety steep but I didn't have the time to do the conversion in my head and the truth is, I trusted Sanjay. One of our longer conversations had been about karma and the idea that you do good to people, and you will get good in return, and he has spoken so passionately about the concept, how could I not trust him? I asked him to show me the way back and he left his purchases with the lady behind the counter and walked me back a little. I thanked him for all his help and clasped my hands, bowed, and Namaste-d. (He on the other hand, laughed and shook my hand). I walked away happy that I had had an interesting experience.

And then, the thinking started. There's no way that groceries can cost that much-4400 rupees is around $60, 2200 around $30. (keep in mind that chocolate is like ten cents.) Also, Sanjay chose a specific store to take me to even though we were surrounded by a thousand food stores. And, he left the groceries I had bought him at the store when he walked me back.

So,I was hustled. A pretty bad feeling.

I spoke to some people here about it and it's (unfortunately) very common. Often street people will cut deals with shopkeepers and getting someone to buy food is a lot easier than outright begging. Also, young American tourists make for very gullible victims.

I'm halfheartedly trying to excuse Sanjay's behavior (he must really need it etc etc, maybe the groceries were really 2200 rupees) but at the end of the day I trusted him and,

it sucks.